Text Appearing Before Image: untrymen CaptainConolly and Colonel Stoddart were thrown in1842, has been closed for ever, Dr Wolfftells us that these gentlemen might havesaved their lives had they consented to denytheir faith. Slavery also, by the influence ofthe Russians, has been abolished. The prisonsstill in use are a disgrace to humanity. Theovercrowded cell for ordinary prisoners is nearlydark. The miserable creatures condemned todeath, or to imprisonment for life, wear an ironcollar with a chain which fastens them in a rowto each other and to the wall ; there is no hopeof release but by death, either natural or by thehand of the executioner. Tobacco and ^oodbread, or trifles of a like nature may be offeredthem, but in small quantities for fear theyshould be deprived of them by their gaolers.Buchara of modern days has been describedas the worst haunt of vice and murder in Asia.I expressed to a Russian officer disgust at theodious cruelties under the rule of the Amir,and a wish that, like the Khan of Khiva, he Text Appearing After Image: in Central Asia 167 might be deprived of all independent authority;but I was given to understand that his greatwealth is useful for the purposes of governmentfor the present, and that he is not allowed toindulge in any barbarous acts of tyranny. Russias advancing torch of civilizationhas already cleared out many frightful anddegrading abuses of power. With that wemust rest satisfied, and certainly in other handsthe great Oriental city would lose its fearsomeand strange fascination, its life that is so totallydifferent from all that is European. Buchara and Merv were always rivals inworldly things, but the Holy City was atall times the central point of the social andhierarchical life of Central Asia. The re-putation for learning and enlightenment wasshared with the towns of Samarkand andKasho-ar. Buchara is a city of mosques, schools, andmedresses — universities. It is strange thatthey should all be allowed to fall into ruinwhile still in use. They are lavishly orna- 168 A Visit to t
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