戴安娜牛排

戴安娜牛排(英語:Steak Diane)是一道由牛排配以醬汁菜餚。最初是在餐桌旁现场烹饪英语Gueridon service[1],有时会焰燒。它很可能是在1930年代的伦敦发明的。从1940年代到60年代,它是所谓“欧陆菜系”的标准菜品[2][3][4][5],现在被认为是复古菜[6][7][8]

戴安娜牛排
类型主菜
起源地英国
发明者可能是巴尔托洛梅奥·卡尔代罗尼或贝尼亚米诺·斯基亚翁和路易吉·夸利诺
主要成分牛排

历史

“戴安娜牛排”并不出现在法餐的经典菜谱中[9];它很可能是在1930年代的伦敦发明的[10],尽管有一种说法认为是在比利时的奥斯坦德[11]

戴安娜这个名字源自罗马狩猎女神狄阿娜,曾用于各种与狩猎相关的食物[12],1914年就有记载的“戴安娜鹿肉排”虽然也是煎炒和焰烧,但其酱汁和配料中包含水果,与后来的戴安娜牛排食谱不同。[13]

戴安娜牛排在第二次世界大战前就已为人所知。1938年的一份伦敦报纸报道了圣莫里茨巴德吕特皇宫酒店英语Badrutt's Palace Hotel提供“香槟和戴安娜牛排至午夜”。[14]1955年有报道称,1930年代梅费尔夸利诺餐厅英语Quaglino's的主厨巴尔托洛梅奥·卡尔代罗尼推广了“当时罕见的戴安娜牛排,他亲自为当时的威尔士亲王(后来的温莎公爵)烹制这道他最喜欢的菜”。[10]事实上,卡尔代罗尼在1988年声称是他发明了这道菜。[15][16]根据1957年的一篇文章,路易斯·蒙巴顿在1930年代是伦敦巴黎咖啡馆英语Café de Paris, London的常客,“几乎总是点同样的晚餐——18个生蚝和戴安娜牛排”。[17]

澳大利亚到1940年便有这道菜,当时一篇关于悉尼罗马诺餐厅的文章提到它是该餐厅的招牌菜。罗马诺的领班英语Maître d'hôtel托尼·克莱里奇说他1938年在伦敦梅菲尔的托尼烧烤餐厅时发明了这道菜,并以黛安娜·曼納斯的名字命名。[18][19]克莱里奇可能是从夏尔·加洛-塞尔瓦那里学到这道菜的,塞尔瓦曾在伦敦的夸利诺餐厅工作。[19][20][21]

1940年这道菜也已经出现在美国[22][23],尽管当时并不广为人知。[24]40年代后期,戴安娜牛排经常出现在受纽约社交界英语Café society欢迎的餐厅菜单上,可能是桌边焰烧菜品潮流的一部分。[25]德雷克酒店英语Drake Hotel (New York City)谢里-尼德兰酒店英语The Sherry-Netherland的餐厅以及殖民地英语The Colony (restaurant)[26][27]21俱樂部亭楼餐厅英语Le Pavillon (Henri Soulé restaurant)都供应这道菜。[7][26]在纽约,这道菜通常被认为是德雷克酒店的领班贝尼亚米诺·斯基亚翁英语Beniamino Schiavon(外号“德雷克的尼诺”)所发明的。[5]1968年有人说斯基亚翁与路易吉·夸利诺在比利时奥斯坦德的海滩餐厅发明了这道菜,并以一位“1920年代的美人”[11]或“1920年代欧洲上流社会的一位显赫女士”的名字命名。[28]在德雷克酒店,它被称为“尼诺牛排”。[29]2017年,又有人提出里约热内卢科帕卡瓦纳宫酒店是戴安娜牛排的发明者。[19]

食谱

戴安娜牛排类似于黑椒牛排英语Steak au poivre[30]早期的食谱材料很少:牛排、黄油、辣醬油、胡椒、盐和切碎的欧芹[23],可能还有蒜。[31]牛排切薄或拍薄以便快速烹饪,在调味的黄油和辣酱油中煎炒,然后撒上欧芹装饰。当时并不焰烧。后来的美国版本更加复杂:1953年的三个纽约食谱添加了白兰地雪利酒蝦夷蔥、干芥末和/或柠檬汁。只有一个食谱明确要求火焰烹调:酱汁用白兰地、干雪利酒或马德拉酒点火,然后浇在牛排上。[27]一些较新的食谱在酱汁中加入奶油[32][33]或蘑菇[34]或两者都加。[35]其他的则更类似于较早的食谱。[36]

另见

参考文献

  1. ^ Livio Borra, letter to the editor, The Times, 1958-07-26, p. 7
  2. ^ Max Jacobson, "Blast from a tasty past", Los Angeles Times, March 26, 1998 [1]: "steak Diane and all the other Continental dishes an up-to-date foodie would be embarrassed to admit knowing of"
  3. ^ Lobel's Culinary Club, August 17, 2012 [2]: "Steak Diane is among those popular dishes in ubiquitous cosmopolitan, Continental-style restaurants of the 1950s and ’60s that combined high style with leather banquettes, white-linen table cloths and dishes of American and European influences, a bit of theater and dramatic preparation."
  4. ^ Mark R. Vogel, "Diana: The Legacy of the Huntress", FoodReference [3]: "One thing is for sure. Steak Diane was the rage in the 50s and early 60s, especially in New York."
  5. ^ 5.0 5.1 Pierre Franey, "60-Minute Gourmet; Steak Diane", The New York Times, January 31, 1979 [4]
  6. ^ Florence Fabricant, "New Wave in the East River: David Burke", The New York Times November 9, 1988, characterizes it as "retro"
  7. ^ 7.0 7.1 Leah Koenig, "Lost Foods of New York City: Steak Diane", Politico, March 14, 2012 [5]: "Lost Foods of New York City is a column that celebrates the food and drink that once fed the city, but have disappeared.... America’s collective obsession with all things mid-century New York City is back in full martini-slinging force. What better time, then, to celebrate steak Diane—a dish so quintessentially retro-glamorous, it might as well be called steak Don Draper."
  8. ^ Jan Aaron, 101 Great Choices: Washington DC, Part 3, p. 76
  9. ^ Louis Saulnier, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine英语Le Répertoire de la Cuisine, 1914
  10. ^ 10.0 10.1 "A Gourmet's Guide", The Sketch, 1955-04-20, pp. 54–55
  11. ^ 11.0 11.1 "Beniamino Schiavon is Dead; Known as Mr. Nino of the Drake", The New York Times, November 19, 1968, p. 47
  12. ^ Larousse Gastronomique, 1st edition "Oeufs à la Diane", with purée of game; Bécasse (woodcock) à la Diane; etc.; Larousse Gastronomique, 2001 edition, p. 416; Sauce Diane, a sauce poivrade英语Sauce poivrade with cream, truffle, and hard-boiled egg white served with venison in Escoffier's Guide Culinaire英语Le guide culinaire (1907)
  13. ^ A. C. Hoff, ed., Steaks, Chops and Fancy Egg Dishes, International Cooking Library, International Publishing Co., 1914, p. 20 full text
  14. ^ "Ski Resort in Summer", The Weekly Dispatch, 1938-08-07, p. 2
  15. ^ "Meo is brought to book at last", "The Times Diary/PHS", The Times, April 11, 1978, p. 16 (column 4, bottom)
  16. ^ Caterer & Hotelkeeper 179:53 (1988)
  17. ^ "It Was Fun While it Lasted", The Sketch, 1957-12-04, p. 18
  18. ^ "Mayfair", "Heard here and There", Sydney Morning Herald, February 29, 1940, p. 19
  19. ^ 19.0 19.1 19.2 "1939 Steak Diane introduced to Australia", Jan O'Connell, A Timeline of Australian Food: from mutton to MasterChef, 2017, ISBN 1742235344, as quoted on the Australian food history timeline web site
  20. ^ "Former Host to Royalty Here to Manage Romano's", Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga), May 4, 1951, p. 1
  21. ^ The Atlantic Monthly, 159:274 (1937)
  22. ^ Spécialités de la Maison. American Friends of France. 1940. 
  23. ^ 23.0 23.1 Morris, Charlotte Sidle. Favorite Recipes of Famous Musicians. 1941: 38. 
  24. ^ Muir, Helen. "Very Truly Yours", Miami Herald, 1942-03-21, p. 5
  25. ^ John Fuller, Guéridon and Lamp Cookery: A Complete Guide to Side-table and Flambé Service, 1964, p. 69
  26. ^ 26.0 26.1 Arthur Schwartz, "21's Steak Diane",[6]archived quoting from Arthur Schwartz, New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes, 2008
  27. ^ 27.0 27.1 Nickerson, Jane. Steak Worthy of the Name . New York Times Magazine. January 25, 1953: 32.  also quoted in Olver, Lynne. Steak Diane. The Food Timeline. 2000. 
  28. ^ Grace Glueck, "Hotel gives fête for its Maître D'", The New York Times, October 26, 1967, p. 50
  29. ^ Stanley Turkel, Great American Hotel Architects, 2019, ISBN 1728306892, p. 311
  30. ^ Mark Bittman, "The Minimalist: A Tender Celebration", The New York Times, 2006-02-08 full text
  31. ^ "Tony's famous steak Diane", Australian Women's Weekly, 1954-10-20, p. 74
  32. ^ "Steak Diane for Two", Cooking, The New York Times. Retrieved 2022-05-04
  33. ^ "Steak Diane", BBC Good Food. Retrieved 2022-05-04
  34. ^ Patten, Marguerite. Cooking for Two. London: Hamlyn. 1982: 47. ISBN 978-0-60-032273-3.  and Paré, Jean. Company's Coming: Main Courses. Edmonton: Company's Coming. 1989: 59. ISBN 978-0-96-933221-3. 
  35. ^ Lagasse, Emeril. Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant With a Past. New York: William Morrow. 2005: 172. ISBN 978-0-06-074046-7. 
  36. ^ "Steak Diane", Cooked. Retrieved 2022-05-04